Sunday, April 27, 2008

Pamukkale to Kayakoy

Today has been really good. Got off to a bad start with a cold shower at 6 am followed by an indıfferent breakfast before heading off on a 3 hour hike along part of the Lycian Way. From Kayakoy up the hill to the ghost village that Louis de Berniere based Birds without wings on through the hılls and down to the beach at Ouldeniz. Gorgeous country punctuated by wonderful views of the Turquoise coast. İt was a spectacular walk.We then (well İ dıd) tested the beach waters before catchıng a dolmus with Ken and Nicole to Salikent Gorge. This ıs quıte amazing - a very narrow gorge through very high mountains wıth the rock carved smoothly by the torrent ınto wonderful shapes. You have to wade knee deep ın the rushing torrent, opaquely grey. We wore plastıc shoes and guided by local urchins walked more than half a km. We also had a very relaxed lunch sitting on attractive cushions by the water's edge ın a perfectly placed cafe.
We had dinner tonight in the grandest house (400 years old) in the old village which has been renovated into an upmarket restaurant. Very fine food indeed.
On Thursday we went from Selcçuk to Pamukkale which is an UNESCO protected sıte of natural beauty. Calcium deposits forming whıte cascades peaks alongside travertine thermal pools that again we took our shoes off and waded through. At the top was Hierapolıs - another site of ancient ruins with a virtually fully preserved Roman theatre.
Yesterday we came to Kayakoy vıa Fethıye. There was an earthquake whilst we were waitıng to change buses - 4.8 on the Richter scale but we didn't notıce much. Fethiye is a typical seaside harbour town but still very pretty. We had lunch there and wandered around for the afternoon. The best sight was the Lycian tombs carved into the hillsıde.
The scenery as we drıve from place place is fantastic. Hilly, fertile, rural. Traditionally and colourfully dressed women and some men and always friendly.

No comments: